This world-class resort has earned its reputation as one of France’s top ski destinations. Val d’Isère has something for skiers and boarders of all levels: Olympic and World Cup runs, a wealth of fantastic off-piste opportunities and a varied selection of pistes including greens high up on the mountain.
The base of Val d'Isère sits at 1850 metres and from there, the pistes climb up to 3488 metres, at the Pointe du Montet and the Pissaillas glacier, just below at 3450 metres. Skiers have a choice of 150 kilometres of pistes for all levels, serviced by 90 lifts.
Val d'Isere is part of the Espace Killy ski area, shared with Tignes. Some of the world's best skiers leave their tracks here and the resort has hosted Olympic and World Cup downhill competitions, as well as the Alpine Ski World Championships.
Best for: Intermediates and above
Val d'Isere really is a great all-round resort. Beginners and intermediates will find about 55% of its runs are either green or blue. The resort also has five beginner zones, two of which are large "ski tranquil" areas, criss-crossed with easy runs.
Of course, advanced skiers will find all the slope they need to push their skills to the limits, thanks to legendary runs like the incredibly steep La Face, used for the men's Olympic downhill. The most challenging run, La Forêt, cuts through the trees and is ideal for mogul fans.
Freestylers can also get their kicks in the famous Oakley ValPark, which like the rest of the resort, offers something for all levels. Val d'Isere is linked to neighbouring Tignes; the two resorts combine to form the giant Espace Killy ski area.
Highlights: High-altitude snowsure slopes, a long ski season from late November into first week of May, ski-in/ski-out accommodation, huge selection of varied pistes, fast modern lifts, terrain parks, one of the best lift-served off-piste ski areas in the world, easy access to Tignes.
Non-skiers: Outdoor ice rink, Aquasportif centre with pools, spas and climbing wall, and two Michelin star restaurants: L'Atelier Edmond (two stars) and La Table de l'Ours (one star).
Nearest airports: Chambery (145km/2hrs), Geneva (223km/2hrs50)
Nearest station: Bourg-St-Maurice (30km/40mins). Regular buses run from station
Après / Nightlife
Val d'Isère is known for its nightlife, so get après ski started at La Rosée Blanche, which is just at the foot of the La Daille. It's a quiet option, where you can sip Val's best vin chaud and watch the last skiers make their way down the mountain.
Otherwise, the M Bar at the Tsanteleina Hotel sets the mood with lounge music, champagne cocktails, and dimmed lighting. The bar also has free wifi, in case you want to take a little time to connect with loved ones back home to recount your exploits on the pistes.
To finish the night on a hot note, there's Dick's Tea Bar, which has been a staple of Val d'Isère nightlife for 30 years. It came under new management in 2010-2011 and underwent renovations. Now guests party in a cool Nordic atmosphere, bathed in blue, turquoise, and violet light. International DJs regularly rock the dance floor, so check their website for the programme.
While many resorts claim to have "something for everyone," Val d'Isère really does. From great off pisting opportunities to exciting beginner areas and a world renowned snow park, this top resort offers a variety of great skiing, eating, and partying opportunities.
In terms of skiing, the Glacier de Pissaillas is an interesting stop, as even beginner skiers can do it. Green, blue, and red pistes run along the glacier and the chance to ski so high without being a great skier makes the detour worth it.
On the slopes, you may want to check out the on-mountain restaurant La Folie Douce, though more for the lively atmosphere and a round of drinks. The food is simply over-priced for what it is. It is located at the top of the La Daille gondola lift, but often you can find it by following the music. On good weather days, the terrace turns into an open-air afternoon dance club. If you are staying at Tignes, though, just be sure to leave in time to catch the last lift back at 5 pm. Otherwise, you'll have a very long bus ride back from the bottom of the pistes.
Val d'Isère also packs its winter calendar full with high-level sporting events. Every December the First Ski Criterium offers guests two weekends of downhill ski world cup competition, one for men and the other for women.
ValPark Week, the White Battle and Altigliss, all held in March, put the spotlight on freestyle ski and boarding. During ValPark Week, around 50 expert freestylers offer guests an impressive free show. The White Battle pits three-member teams against each other in a freestyle board and ski competition at the foot of the La Face slope. The Altigliss Challenge brings students in from Europes's best ski schools to compete in giant slalom, boarder cross, big air, and parallel slalom events.
Breakfast
Breakfast if often included in the price of the hotel, especially if you book a package deal. Many hotels even offer copious breakfast buffets complete with eggs, sausages, and cheeses since the clientele is so international.
Le Petit Danois, just behind the La Daille bus station, touts itself as the resort's number one party bar, but it's also a good place to find a full breakfast selection, including full and half English breakfasts, and even vegetarian versions, which is something pretty rare in France. Plan to spend €12.50 for the full breakfast, €8.50 for the others.
For a quicker option, you can always grab a quick café au lait and croissant or baguette and butter at one of the many resort cafés. Try La Sana, which is in the centre of the resort, just across from the ESF ski school, at the corner of rue Noël Machet and the rue du Parc des Sports.
Lunch
Head to La Tête de Solaise, atop the namesake summit, for lunch with a view of the surrounding mountains. The restaurant was recently renovated in a retro mountain style and is actually three different eateries: a self-service cafeteria, a sit-down restaurant, and a pizzeria.
At the base village, a good bet is La Corniche, just behind the church. They serve a wide variety of typical French fare, which is well prepared. Specialities include several varieties of fondue as well as unique dishes like venison with red currants and seafood marmite. Main dishes run from €20-28.
Dinner
High-end
La Table de l'Ours, located in the Barmes de l'Ours hotel, serves fine cuisine that has earned chef Anthony Maubert a Michelin star. The atmosphere could be described as cosy mountain chic, with a blazing fireplace, white linens, and understated refinement. Try some of the traditional mountain fare with a decidedly upscale twist, like the tartiflette enhanced with truffle-stuffed pork belly and lamb morsels. Fixed price menus range from €85€-€185 and can include up to 12 courses.
La Grande Ourse also offers fine dining, with dishes like saffron and lobster claw pasta, Sisteron lamb with stuffed vegetables, and whole roasted bass with gnocchi gratin. The restaurant goes all the way back to 1936, when it was the one of the top places in the resort to grab a sandwich and cup of hot wine. Since the 1970s, it has been serving fine French cuisine, in a warm atmosphere accentuated with time-worn wood beams and a fire that adds a touch of charm. You'll find La Grande Ourse next to La Savonnette drag lift, near the Le Brussels hotel.
The Ormelune restaurant, in the hotel of the same name, goes for a more off-beat style, with polka dot and striped chairs and flashy tableware. On the menu, you'll find quality meat dishes and pasta, as well as handful of varied salads to start. Main dishes range from €18-22.
Low-key
Head back to Le Petit Danois, where you will find wraps and salads for around €10 plus burgers and pub grub for a few extra euros.
Après / Nightlife
Val d'Isère is known for its nightlife, so get après ski started at La Rosée Blanche, which is just at the foot of the La Daille. It's a quiet option, where you can sip Val's best vin chaud and watch the last skiers make their way down the mountain.
Otherwise, the M Bar at the Tsanteleina Hotel sets the mood with lounge music, champagne cocktails, and dimmed lighting. The bar also has free wifi, in case you want to take a little time to connect with loved ones back home to recount your exploits on the pistes.
To finish the night on a hot note, there's Dick's Tea Bar, which has been a staple of Val d'Isère nightlife for 30 years. It came under new management in 2010-2011 and underwent renovations. Now guests party in a cool Nordic atmosphere, bathed in blue, turquoise, and violet light. International DJs regularly rock the dance floor, so check their website for the programme.
Airports
Val d'Isère is not far from several different airports, so you can choose to fly into Lyon-Saint Exupéry (220 km), Grenoble (200 km), Geneva (180 km), or Chambéry (134 km). Aer Lingus, British Airways, and KLM-Air France operate direct flights from London, Edinburgh, and Dublin. However, if you choose to fly into Chambéry, note that many of the flights operate only on the weekends. For a cheaper option, easyJet flies direct from London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Belfast.
Airport transfers
Thanks to many travel options, it is easy to get from the airport to Val d'Isère. You have the choice of regular bus lines, car hire, taxi, tour operators, or train. Private helicopter transfer can even be arranged if you want to add an aerial view of the Alps to your list of Val d'Isère memories.
Regular bus lines are a popular choice and are also the most convenient. Altibus and the British company Ben's Bus handle transfers from Geneva, Lyon, and Chambéry. Ben's Bus run between the resort and Grenoble.
Return ticket prices range from €70-113, depending on the airport you choose. These can be booked in advance online or purchased directly at the Lyon, Chambéry, and Grenoble airports. If you take the bus from Geneva, you must book your ticket in advance. For all of the airports, however, it is best to book early if you are travelling during peak times.
Getting around
While Val d'Isère is not entirely car-free, they do encourage you to park your car and leave it for the duration of your stay. Cars are even banned from the centre of the resort, and in general, parking is highly regulated (the authorities do not hesitate to hand out parking fines). If you're worried about where to park, book your parking space online for three-31 day stays. Do so at www.parkingvaldisere.com. This is highly recommended if you are planning to be here during any school holiday period.
Inside the resort area, guests can take advantage of free shuttle bus services that run from 7 a.m to 8 p.m or midnight, depending on the bus line. There is also one night bus line that runs from 8 p.m to around 2 a.m. Exact timetable information is available at the bus stops.